Saturday Feb 23 - Sunday Feb 24

A boring, rainy day today. Good thing I looked at the forecast and realized it’d be raining in Huelva too, which was where I had hoped to spend the day. I walked to Triana, the neighborhood next to mine, and went to the well-known market there. Bought a half kilo of strawberries for 2.50 Euros, which was a good deal. The market technically doesn’t allow cigarettes, but everyone in there was smoking and it made me dizzy. I left and wandered around a few streets known for their ceramic shops, then headed home. Met up with Lia later for coffee, and got drenched in the process.

Sunday was much nicer, with comfortable temperatures, so I went jogging through Parque de los Principes, a big park near my homestay. It felt really good to exercise, which is not an especially Spanish thing to do – at least, not in public wearing Adidas shorts and a Georgetown t-shirt. I looked pretty American. Oh well.

Sunday Feb 17-Friday Feb 22

Not too much to report for this week, except colder weather than usual. Actually, it hasn’t been as cold here as I thought it would be – and it’s definitely nothing like DC during the winter – but I realized that I’ve felt just a little bit colder than is comfortable since the day I arrived in Spain. So it’s not that the cold is intense by any means, but it sort of settles in your bones and makes you feel like you’re freezing. I’ve been wearing a t-shirt, sweatshirt, long underwear, sweatpants and socks to bed every night, and sometimes using a heating pad, and I still wake up shivering from time to time...during the day, though, temperatures are becoming more and more comfortable. Slept in Sunday and read articles for classes, then had classes Monday-Friday.

Saturday Feb 16

The train left at 9:15 and got to Córdoba at 10:30. After consulting a bunch of really inaccurate maps, we walked south for about 15 minutes to the historic center of town. Many of the streets reminded me of Seville, twisting and turning all over. But other aspects were totally unique to Córdoba, especially the truly amazing Alcázar and the mezquita/catedral. Yes, Seville has both an Alcázar (an Arabic word which means fortified palace or governor’s palace, and most large cities in Andalucía have one) and a cathedral, but both are very different from city to city, and Córdoba’s are spectacular. First we headed to the Alcázar, which was built in 1328 under the reign of King Alfonso XI, shortly after the end of Arab rule in Córdoba, which lasted from 711 to sometime in the early 14^th century. In addition to serving as an official Andalucian residence for many kings and queens of Spain (same case for the one in Seville), Córboda’s Alcázar served as headquarters for the Inquisition during the Modern Ages (15^th – 18^th Centuries). The entire structure (a truly massive building) was converted into a giant prison during the 19^th century. During the 1400s, King Ferdinand and Queen Isabel frequently met with Christopher Columbus at this Alcázar. Look at the gardens, with a castle wall in the background:This wouldn't have been a fun place to be imprisoned or to face the Inquisition...the structure's just a bit imposing.
After wandering through the whole building and the beautiful gardens, we headed to the nearby mezquita (mosque) which was converted into a Catholic cathedral – a very common action taken after the reconquest of each respective city in Andalucia. Excavations of the cathedral have shown it to be built on top of an ancient Christian temple from the 6^th century. The Arabs demolished most of the temple and began construction of the mosque in 785. It was one of the most beautiful and important mosques in the Western Islamic world; Córdoba was the western capital of Al-Ándalus, rivaling Baghdad (the eastern capital) in wealth, culture and power. Córdoba was conquered by the Christians in 1236, and the mosque was dedicated anew as a cathedral that same year. Major construction to convert the building into a cathedral began in 1523, and were highly controversial. The result, though, is incredible – the red-and-white double arches seem to go on forever. They look like they’re from a Dr. Seuss book. Besides the amazing arches, there are countless naves, beautiful marble pillars, tiled floors, painted mosaics, carved wooden window coverings, vaulted ceilings, underground baths and a beautiful patio with pools and fountains.

Outside the mezquita/cathedral, a shot of the belltower:
Can't get enough of those cool arches:
A guy talking on his cell phone outside the mezquita/cathedral, chilling in an arch that's like 1,200 years old. No big deal.